Loro Piana Will get a New Headquarters and Retailer


The imposing palazzo that sits at By way of della Moscova 33 in Milan’s well-heeled Brera district was as soon as a nexus of the native silk commerce. Industrialists and artisans would journey from throughout Italy to the constructing, constructed within the late nineteenth century and generally known as the Cortile della Seta, to satisfy, commerce and vote on business issues. Throughout World Warfare II, the construction was destroyed by bombs; it was later rebuilt and used as a financial institution. As of this 12 months, although, when it grew to become the headquarters for Loro Piana, in addition to the location of the 98-year-old model’s second retailer dedicated to interiors, the palazzo is as soon as once more residence to high-end textiles.

Initially from Trivero, within the northern Italian area of Piedmont, the Loro Piana household has been working in wool, an financial staple of the mountainous province, for the reason that early 1800s. Constructing on what he’d realized from his kin, Pietro Loro Piana based the namesake model, which shortly grew to become recognized for producing a few of the most interesting materials in Italy, in 1924. Through the postwar years, the label developed a strong enterprise promoting to upscale tailors throughout Europe, america and Japan, but it surely wasn’t till the Nineteen Seventies, when two of Pietro’s great-nephews, brothers Pier Luigi and Sergio Loro Piana, adopted within the footsteps of their father, Franco, and took the helm that it started to resemble its present form.

The pair launched clothes and equipment — easy fringed scarves and stoles at first — and seemed past Piedmont for supplies, together with child cashmere from Mongolia, obtained from the under-fleece of a child Capra hircus goat that may solely be combed out as soon as within the child’s lifetime, earlier than it turns one, and vicuña (first sourced for the model by Franco), which is derived from a relative of the llama from the Andes. By the late Nineties, Loro Piana was promoting sensible tailor-made jackets, wool overcoats and finely woven cashmere sweaters in its retailers in Milan and New York. In 2013, LVMH bought an 80 p.c stake within the model (it bought one other 5 p.c just a few years later), although Pier Luigi stays as vice chairman (Sergio died in 2013). And it’s retained its status for distinctive and infrequently unique supplies, in addition to for its dedication to craftsmanship: All levels of manufacturing, from the processing of fibers to the weaving of textiles to the stitching and ending of clothes and different items, happen totally in-house between 9 factories or mills, all in Italy and most in Piedmont.

With its new location, Loro Piana appears to be turning the web page to one more new chapter. Beforehand, its workplaces had been scattered all through town, however because the model continued to develop, the choice was made to deliver its design, advertising and marketing, administrative and different groups collectively to facilitate communication between them. When By way of della Moscova 33 grew to become out there following a prolonged structural renovation led by the native agency Asti Architetti, its central location, measurement (280,000 sq. ft) and wealthy previous made it an apparent selection. Then got here one other choice: who ought to deal with the inside design of the workplaces? The corporate commissioned Vincent Van Duysen, the Belgian architect recognized for such clean-lined tasks as Casa M, his personal minimalist concrete retreat that sits among the many dunes within the seaside city of Comporta, Portugal, and Antwerp’s elegant August resort, set in a former convent. “He has very pure style,” says Francesco Pergamo, the director of Loro Piana Interiors. Certainly, each the architect and the model commerce in a disarming form of simplicity, whether or not within the type of a spare travertine-lined residence or that of an unembellished merino knit.

By way of della Moscova 33’s sun-drenched, glass-roofed inside courtyard, the place tens of hundreds of bundles of treasured silkworm cocoons had been as soon as saved, now serves as a form of city sq. for the model. Standing at its heart, one can peer skyward by way of the large stacked home windows and into varied showrooms, the place racks of clothes stand towards pale cream partitions, and into ethereal workplaces.

The architect’s total objective, he says, was to present the corporate’s staff a recent setting whereas additionally referencing the model’s DNA. The fluted partitions on the second flooring, for example, are swathed in a cream-colored cloth manufactured from Trevira, a flame-resistant technical materials, whereas throughout the in any other case open-plan workplaces he devised a system of Trevira-covered partitions. The identical cloth in Kummel, or the brownish burgundy that options on the corporate’s emblem, was used for the pared-back desk chairs — not-quite-straight-backed seats with easy white metal bases on wheels — designed by Van Duysen for the Belgian firm Bulo. They sit tucked into customized desks, with bone-colored aluminum frames, pale oak drawers and dove grey felt privateness screens, that Van Duysen designed for Unifor. The flooring is manufactured from recycled fishing nets. Van Duysen agrees that “there’s a synergy between my aesthetics and theirs,” including, “It’s all about having an eye fixed for the main points.”

It’s noteworthy that the brand new house is being inaugurated simply as the corporate itself is beefing up its interiors division, which launched with ornamental textiles, equipment and rugs in 2006. “They created a field with completely different materials that was despatched to crucial decorators on the earth,” Pergamo says of its begin. Subsequent, the model opened textile showrooms for design professionals in Milan, New York, Paris and Los Angeles. However when Pergamo moved into interiors in 2019 — he had beforehand been the director of ladies’s and leather-based items product growth — he did so with the objective of creating Loro Piana materials, and far else, extra seen and accessible. “I wished to enter furnishings, completed merchandise and design tasks,” he says.

In 2019, he and the remainder of the Loro Piana Interiors group redecorated one of many non-public pavilions situated within the park of the storied Lake Como resort Villa d’Este, dressing its rooms in complementary shades of coral and robin’s-egg blue that seem on velvet headboards, cashmere sofas, wool carpets and silk drapes. They adopted that with a number of limited-edition furnishings collaborations, together with a chaise longue in Cashfur finished with Raphael Navot and a sequence of mahogany director’s chairs designed by Paola Navone and crafted by Exteta, earlier than producing their very own customizable furnishings, reminiscent of that of the just lately launched Ginza line, whose items are outlined by excessive, squared armrests and, if desired, piping in contrasting colours. In 2020, the Paris showroom was transformed into an interiors store open to the general public, although the brand new Milan retailer would be the flagship.

Set behind 4 grand arched home windows on the constructing’s road degree, it was designed by the in-house group, and whereas the workplaces totally embrace Van Duysen’s pressure of minimalism, the store feels extra like somebody’s heat and well-appointed residence. The model’s cashmere-upholstered furnishings is organized in a number of home mise-en-scènes (a eating and sitting space, a spalike toilet) accented with merchandise starting from woven horsehair place mats to silk-cashmere dressing robes. Additionally on provide are carpets and wallcoverings, and in a small alcove on the retailer’s rear, cloth samples dangle on pegs in what is called the textile library. They’re organized in keeping with shade and embody Chesa, a mix of cashmere and yarn-dyed wool in a muted grey and amber madras sample, and Ice, a pure cashmere whose undyed fibers coalesce in a pure mélange. Prospects can merely choose their favourite, or work with the in-house design group, situated on the shop’s second flooring, to embellish their home (or yacht).

Come June, which is when town’s annual Salone del Cellular design truthful will subsequent happen, the constructing’s courtyard would be the web site of an set up displaying a brand new furnishings collaboration. Particulars are nonetheless underneath wraps, however Pergamo isn’t shy about his enthusiasm for the house. “With this new constructing we have now an actual residence in Milan,” he says. “And having a house with out the house enterprise would have been a bit unusual, no?”


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